The Ultimate Camera For Focused Photography

Getting the right focus is one of the most important aspects of photography. Autofocus points are a visual representation of what your camera is focusing on. They are usually displayed as empty squares or dots on your camera's viewfinder or LCD screen. The more autofocus points your camera has, the more precisely you can adjust your focus.

The number of autofocus points varies from camera to camera. Entry-level DSLRs typically have 9 or 11 focus points, while mid-range DSLRs offer 45 or 51. More advanced cameras, such as the Canon 1DX, offer 191 focus points, and the Canon R6 boasts 1053. The Sony A7 III, a full-frame mirrorless camera, features a whopping 693 phase detection points and 425 contrast detection points.

Phase detection vs contrast detection

Phase detection and contrast detection are two different autofocus technologies that work in distinct ways. While both have their pros and cons, photographers often prefer phase detection autofocus (PDAF) due to its speed and accuracy. However, the best autofocus system depends on the type of photography and the camera being used.

Phase Detection Autofocus (PDAF)

Phase detection autofocus is a technology that uses two sensors located on each side of the camera lens to detect the phase difference in the light entering the lens. This allows the camera to determine if the subject is in focus and adjust the lens accordingly. PDAF is typically found in digital SLRs and some mirrorless cameras. It is also very customisable, allowing photographers to change the focus points and sensitivity according to their preferences.

When it comes to moving subjects, PDAF is generally faster and more accurate than contrast detection. It also performs better in low-light conditions, as the phase detection sensors can detect light directly from the lens.

Contrast Detection Autofocus (CDAF)

Contrast detection autofocus, on the other hand, uses the camera's sensor to detect the contrast between light and dark areas in the scene. The camera's processor then analyses this information and aligns the lens to bring the subject into focus. CDAF is most commonly used in mirrorless cameras and some point-and-shoot cameras.

While CDAF is slower than PDAF, it offers greater accuracy when focusing on stationary subjects, making it ideal for portrait and landscape photography. It is also quieter than PDAF, which is advantageous when photographing skittish animals or working in quiet environments.

Hybrid Autofocus

With advancements in camera technology, some mirrorless cameras now come with hybrid autofocus systems that combine both PDAF and CDAF. This provides photographers with greater control and flexibility, allowing them to track moving subjects with phase detection and focus on stationary subjects with contrast detection.

Autofocus area mode

Autofocus (AF) area modes are an essential feature of modern digital cameras, allowing photographers to fine-tune how and where the camera focuses within a scene. The right AF area mode can help ensure sharp images and give photographers more flexibility and accuracy.

AF area modes are especially useful when used in conjunction with autofocus (AF) modes, which are settings that determine how a camera focuses on a subject. There are three main autofocus modes: Single AF (AF-S), Continuous AF (AF-C), and Hybrid AF (AF-A). Single AF is best for static subjects as the camera will only focus once and lock focus on a single point. Continuous AF, on the other hand, is ideal for moving subjects as the camera will continuously adjust focus as the subject moves. Lastly, Hybrid AF automatically switches between Single and Continuous AF depending on whether the subject is stationary or moving.

When it comes to AF area modes, photographers can typically choose from Single-Point AF, Dynamic AF, Group AF, and Auto AF area modes. Single-Point AF allows the photographer to select a single focus point, making it ideal for static subjects. Dynamic AF, on the other hand, uses a selected focus point as well as the surrounding points to keep a moving subject in focus. Group AF is similar to Dynamic AF but allows for the selection of a specific autofocus area with multiple focus points. Lastly, Auto AF area mode is completely automatic, allowing the camera to decide which focus points to use based on factors such as subject distance and motion.

The best AF area mode to use depends on the subject and the situation. For landscape photography, Single-Point AF is often ideal as the camera can be focused on a specific feature to maximise the depth of field. For wildlife photography, the best AF area mode depends on the speed and movement of the animal. For slow-moving subjects, Single-Point AF or Dynamic AF with a small number of points may be best, while for fast-moving subjects, Dynamic AF with a larger area or a dedicated tracking mode like 3D AF may be more suitable. For sports photography, the best AF area mode depends on the type of sport. For individual sports, Dynamic AF with a small number of points may be ideal, while for team sports, a larger Dynamic AF area or Auto AF may be better.

Continuous autofocus

In continuous autofocus mode, the camera tracks the subject's movement and adjusts the focus accordingly. To do this, the camera continually checks the distance between itself and the subject and adjusts the focus each time it detects a change. This continues until the moment you release the shutter.

Different camera manufacturers have different names for this mode: Canon calls it AI Servo AF, Sony calls it Continuous AF, and Nikon calls it AF-C.

One of the benefits of continuous autofocus mode is that it is often predictive. Camera manufacturers have programmed their continuous autofocus modes to predict where a subject is moving. In other words, your camera tries to calculate where the subject will be when you release the shutter. This helps to reduce significant errors and counter "shutter lag".

However, continuous autofocus also has its limitations. While it might be effective for tracking the movement of a driving car or a walking pedestrian, it is less effective for tracking a bird or a cheetah doing zig-zags while chasing prey.

To improve the performance of continuous autofocus modes for unpredictable subjects, camera manufacturers have developed variations of this mode, including Animal Eye AF, Vehicle AF, and Deep Learning AF.

Manual focus

When to Use Manual Focus

• Macro and close-up photography, especially with still subjects
• Low-light situations, where autofocus struggles to lock on
• Street photography, using a technique called zone focusing
• Creative effects like intentional camera movement, deliberate misfocusing, and shoot-through techniques
• Wide-angle photography, where autofocus may lock on to unwanted areas
• Panorama photography, to maintain focus consistency across multiple images
• Hyperfocal distance photography, to achieve complete clarity throughout the frame
• Low-contrast situations, where autofocus relies on the contrast between tones

Tips for Manual Focusing

• Locate the focusing mode switch on your camera or lens and switch it to "MF" (Manual Focus).
• Find the focus ring, usually near the middle or end of the lens barrel, and twist it to one side to see the focus shift.
• Use your camera's Live View function to magnify the image and adjust focus until you achieve perfect sharpness.
• Narrow the aperture to give yourself a larger margin of error. For example, shooting at f/8 provides more flexibility than f/2.8.
• After taking a manually focused image, check the result on the LCD by zooming in to ensure sharpness.
• Practice focusing with manual-focus lenses to improve your speed and accuracy.
• Ensure the diopter on your camera's viewfinder is correctly set for optimal viewing.
• Use live view mode on your DSLR or mirrorless camera to zoom in and fine-tune the focus.
• Use focus peaking (available on some mirrorless cameras and DSLRs in live view mode) to highlight areas of highest contrast, indicating sharp focus.
• Use hyperfocal distance focusing to maximise the depth of field at a given aperture.
• Pre-focus when you know where your subject will appear, so you're ready to capture the moment.
• Set the optimum settings for street photography, such as aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, and focus manually on a specific distance.
• Try modern manual lenses from brands like Zeiss, Leica, and Voigtländer, which offer excellent optical quality.

Single autofocus mode

AF single is one of the least intelligent autofocus modes. If the subject moves after focus has been acquired, the camera won't adjust the focus to compensate. Instead, you'll have to focus again.

Single autofocus is also a good choice when creating long exposure images to ensure correct focus.

• Use the centre focus point. The centre point is typically a cross-type sensor, which is more accurate and sensitive than the other focus points.
• Use the "AF-Assist" feature. This will help the camera to focus in low-light conditions.
• Look for contrast and edges in the scene. Autofocus systems rely on areas of high contrast to function properly.
• Add more light to the scene.
• Watch your shutter speed. A very slow shutter speed can result in blurry images due to camera shake.
• Use Live View Contrast Detection AF. This is much more reliable than Phase Detection AF in low-light situations.
• Use a bright flashlight. Ask someone to point it at your subject while you focus, then switch to manual focus and ask them to turn off the flashlight before taking the picture.

Different camera brands use different terms for their autofocus settings. Single autofocus mode is known as:

• AF-S (Nikon)
• One-Shot AF (Canon)
• Single-shot AF (Sony)

Frequently asked questions