Removing Monitor Heater Vent Pipes: A Step-By-Step Guide

Removing a monitor heater vent pipe can be a complex task, and the process may vary depending on the specific type of heater and vent setup you have. It is always recommended to consult a professional technician or refer to the product manual for detailed instructions. However, here is a general overview of the steps involved in removing a monitor heater vent pipe:

1. Turn off the heater and allow it to cool down completely before starting any work.

2. Identify the type of vent pipe connection you have. It could be a twist lock, a locking ring, or another type of connection.

3. If there is a locking ring, remove it first. If it is a twist lock style, you may need to twist and unlock it before removing the pipe.

4. Apply force to separate the vent pipe from the heater. In some cases, you may need to use specialised tools or techniques to loosen any corrosion or debris that may be holding the pipe in place.

5. Once the vent pipe is removed, inspect the area for any damage or corrosion.

6. If you are moving the heater to a new location, refer to the product manual for instructions on how to reinstall the vent pipe in the new location.

7. If you are not reconnecting the vent pipe, make sure to properly cap or cover the openings to prevent any safety hazards.

Removing the locking ring

To remove the locking ring, you will need to identify the type of pipe connection you have. In the case of a \"twist lock\" style pipe, as suggested by the appliance technician in the conversation, you can try to twist and unlock the pipe. If your pipe is not a "twist lock" style, you may need to apply more force to remove it, as years of use may have caused the metal to expand, making it tighter. It is important to note that without seeing the setup, it is challenging to provide specific instructions.

If you are unable to remove the locking ring with reasonable force, it may be beneficial to seek professional help from a qualified technician. They will have the expertise and tools to safely and effectively remove the locking ring without causing damage to your heater or pipes. Additionally, they can inspect your setup and provide guidance on the best course of action.

Remember to exercise caution when working with any heating equipment and pipes to prevent accidents or damage.

Using more force to remove the pipe

If you are having trouble removing the pipe, it may be because the metal has expanded due to years of use and heat exposure. This means that it might be tighter now and may require a bit more force to remove.

If you are removing the pipe from the stove body, check if you are using a "twist lock" style pipe. If not, you may have to remove the locking ring.

If the pipe still does not come off, it may be because it has expanded and become very tight. You can try using more force to turn and pull the pipe, but be careful not to damage the threads or the stove body. If you are still unable to remove the pipe, you may need to seek professional help or advice.

Removing the pipe from the stove

Safety Precautions:

Before beginning any work on your stove, it is crucial to prioritize your safety. Make sure the stove is turned off and that there are no hot ashes or embers inside. Allow the pipe to cool down completely, as attempting to work on a hot pipe can cause burns and increase the risk of fire. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby as an extra precaution. Wear protective gear, including a face mask, goggles, and gloves, to safeguard yourself from inhaling dust and avoiding injuries. Additionally, lay down drop cloths or old bedsheets around the stove to minimize the mess and facilitate cleanup.

Understanding the Pipe Connections:

Locate the first pipe connection, which is typically where the bottom or "female" pipe end holds the top or "male" pipe end in place. Look for screws or rivets at this joint. If you have a twist lock-style pipe, as mentioned in one source, you may need to remove a locking ring or use a specific twisting motion to unlock the connection. In some cases, the pipe may have expanded due to heat over the years, making it tighter and requiring more force to separate.

Disconnecting the Pipe:

Using a screwdriver or ratchet wrench, loosen the screws or rivets at the first pipe connection. If there is a locking ring, you may need to remove it first. Repeat this step for each subsequent pipe connection. It is helpful to have an assistant at this stage to hold the pipe and prevent it from crashing down as you loosen the connections. Once the screws are loose, the male end of the pipe will slide down slightly, allowing you to angle it to the side and lift it free from the bottom connection. Continue this process for all necessary connections.

Handling and Cleanup:

Place the disconnected pipe in a large garbage bag or can to avoid leaving a trail of ash and creosote. Be sure to fold up the drop cloths and use an ash vacuum to clean up any remaining mess.

Remember, if at any point you feel uncomfortable or unsure about performing any of these steps, don't hesitate to consult a professional for assistance.

Capping the vent pipe

Firstly, it is important to determine the type of vent pipe you are dealing with. There are two common types: natural draft gas and induced draft/power venting. The natural draft gas water heater vent pipe is the most common and can be identified by its galvanized steel pipe. It is crucial to use the correct type of pipe for your specific heater.

When capping the vent pipe, it is important to use the appropriate materials. For natural draft gas water heaters, galvanized steel pipe is typically used. Do not experiment with other materials such as aluminum pipes, food cans, stainless steel sections, or flexible pipes. The vent pipe section between the heater and the chimney should be as short and straight as possible, with the horizontal part of the single-wall vent pipe not exceeding 75% of its total developed height.

The connection between the draft hood and the vent pipe is crucial. It should be secured with sheet metal screws, with three screws per connection recommended for a single-wall pipe. Do not use regular duct tape or aluminum tape on the joints, as this can hide problems like corrosion or holes. If you are using a double-wall vent pipe, such as a B-vent, only use screws on the first connection to the draft hood or single-wall vent pipe.

When capping the vent pipe, ensure that it is centred over the vent hole, with straight legs. Gas water heater draft hoods play an important role in preventing carbon monoxide gases from being expelled into the living space. They also act as a device to prevent air from extinguishing the gas burner in case of a down-draft. Make sure to use the correct size of the draft hood for your vent pipe. If your draft hood is designed for a 3" vent pipe, and you have a 4" vent pipe, use an adapter or increaser to join them. Do not downsize the vent pipe; instead, replace it with the proper size.

Additionally, monitor the vent pipes for corrosion and deterioration. Problems with proper drafting, chimney conditions, and combustion air issues can lead to galvanized pipes corroding. Small holes may appear on the surface, and the pipe may become soft and fall apart under pressure. Corroded vent pipes should be replaced as soon as possible to prevent exhaust fumes and carbon monoxide contamination.

Finally, ensure that the vent pipe clearances are adequate. Single-wall vent pipes must be installed at least 6" away from any combustible materials such as floors or wall framing. Single-wall natural draft vent pipes should not be used in unheated areas like attics or garages, as this will cause excessive condensation and compromise proper drafting. Instead, use a double-wall pipe or B-vent type in these spaces.

Replacing the heater vent pipe

Step 1: Take Appropriate Precautions

Before you begin, ensure that you have turned off your furnace. This will prevent the production of toxic gases while you work. It is also important to wear protective gear, such as rubber gloves and safety glasses, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby. If you need to use a ladder to reach the duct, place it on an even surface to avoid accidents.

Step 2: Remove the Old Vent Pipe

Use a ladder to reach the pipes and remove them one piece at a time. The vent is made up of metal ducting joined by silicone caulk and screws. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws and a knife to break the caulk. Detach the metal hangers supporting the piping from the ceiling and remove the pipe from the wall outlet and furnace inlet socket. You may need assistance as the pipe can be long and heavy.

Step 3: Measure and Purchase New Ducting

Measure the required diameter and length of the new metal ducting. Make a sketch to estimate the number of elbow joints needed to guide the pipe to the outlet. Double-check your measurements before purchasing the new ducting.

Step 4: Install the New Metal Duct

Attach one end of the new duct to the furnace exhaust outlet using a pipe crimper. Guide the duct along the ceiling using metal straps nailed to the ceiling. Use elbow joints to direct the duct towards the wall outlet. Connect the duct pieces together with screws and silicone caulk to prevent leaks. Ensure that the piping does not sag between metal hangers or at the furnace exhaust outlet to allow toxic gases to escape.

Step 5: Final Checks and Approval

Call a professional to inspect and approve your work. This is mandatory in some places and ensures there are no leaks in the ducting.

Frequently asked questions