Focusing On Infinity: Landscape Photography Camera Techniques

how to focus camera for landscaps

Focusing is one of the most important aspects of landscape photography. If you don't focus properly, your photos may not be as sharp as they could be, or they might even be unusable. There are several techniques you can use to ensure your landscape photos are sharp from the foreground to the background. One popular method is the double-the-distance method, where you focus on something that is twice as far away as the closest object in your photo. This gives equal sharpness to the foreground and background. Another technique is to focus roughly a third of the way into the scene, which can help to keep both the foreground and background sharp. You can also try focus bracketing, which involves taking several photos with slightly different focus points, and choosing the sharpest image.

Characteristics Values
Focal point Place on the subject in the foreground
Camera settings Adjust aperture, shutter speed, ISO, etc.
Depth of field Manage depth of field to ensure the entire landscape is in focus
Focus stacking Take several pictures of the same subject, each with a different focal point
Manual focus vs autofocus Use autofocus by default, but switch to manual focus in low-light conditions or if autofocus isn't working properly
Optical viewfinder vs live view Use live view for more accuracy, especially when using manual focus
Autofocus area modes Avoid using auto-area mode; instead, use single-point mode or another specific mode

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Focus on the subject matter

Focusing on the subject matter is an obvious but important point to remember. When you have a clear subject or centre of interest in your photo, focus on that. It is the most important part of your picture, and you absolutely need it to be in focus. Don't worry about the foreground or background; just make sure the subject is in focus.

Sometimes, you just want a definite subject in focus. Background blur might not even be a bad thing.

If you're shooting with a wide-angle lens, your focus point should sit approximately one-third of the way from the bottom of your picture. If you're shooting with a telephoto lens, your focus point should be the closest thing to you or the most important element within your frame.

Choosing the best spot to place your focal point will help draw your viewer's eye into the scene for a well-composed shot. Following the Rule of Thirds will allow you to choose your focal point easily. It is also one of the most valuable things you'll ever learn about composition in landscape photography.

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Use autofocus when it's working well

Autofocus is a great tool for landscape photography, especially when it's working well. It is quick and convenient, and if nothing goes wrong, it is just as accurate as manual focus.

  • Avoid autofocus area modes where the camera tries to guess your subject. Instead, use single-point and single-servo autofocus.
  • Understand the difference between contrast-detect and phase-detect autofocus. DSLRs typically use phase-detect in the viewfinder and contrast-detect in live view. Mirrorless cameras tend to use contrast-detect or a hybrid system. Phase-detect is quicker but needs to be calibrated properly, whereas contrast-detect is usually more accurate.
  • Choose a high-contrast point for focusing, like blades of grass or the edge of a rock. Focusing on something with minimal detail, like a cloud, may not work well.

Autofocus is particularly useful in the following scenarios:

  • Daytime photos, sunsets, and landscapes in general. With enough light, autofocus rarely fails.
  • When you need to be quick, such as when photographing a quickly-moving landscape like ocean waves.
  • When you are shooting handheld or moving.

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Use a tripod

Using a tripod is a great way to stabilise your camera and ensure your landscape photos are sharp and in focus. Here are some tips for using a tripod to improve your landscape photography:

Choose a Sturdy Tripod

A good, sturdy tripod will provide the stability you need to capture sharp images. Avoid very inexpensive tripods, as they tend to be made with cheap materials that won't hold your camera steady. Instead, opt for a tripod that is specifically designed for landscape photography, as these tend to be more durable and offer features that cater to the needs of landscape photographers.

Turn Off Image Stabilisation

If your camera or lens has image stabilisation (IS), make sure to turn it off when using a tripod. Leaving it on can waste battery life and, in some cases, can actually soften your shots. This is because the image stabilisation system may inadvertently cause blur when it doesn't detect any motion.

Use a Remote Shutter Release

Instead of physically pressing the shutter button, use a cable or infrared release to trigger the shutter remotely. This will help to avoid any camera motion that could soften your photos, even when using a tripod. Alternatively, you can use your camera's self-timer or Exposure Delay mode to similar effect.

Attach Your Camera to the Tripod

This may seem obvious, but it's worth mentioning: make sure your camera is securely attached to the tripod. This will ensure your camera stays stable and reduces the risk of accidental drops.

Adjust Your Camera's Height and Position

Use the tripod's legs and centre column to adjust the height and position of your camera. This will allow you to capture a variety of compositions, from low-angle shots close to the ground to taller perspectives. Some tripods also allow you to reposition the centre column horizontally, giving you even more flexibility.

Use a Ball Head for Easy Repositioning

A ball head on your tripod will make it easier to reposition your camera quickly and smoothly. Look for one with large, chunky knobs that are easy to loosen and tighten, especially if you plan on shooting in inclement weather.

Lock Down All Mechanisms

Make sure all the mechanisms on your tripod are locked securely. This includes the legs, the centre column, and any other adjustable parts. This will help ensure your tripod remains stable and reduces the risk of accidental movement during your exposure.

Empty Water from the Tripod Legs

If you're shooting near water or in wet conditions, remember to empty any water that may have accumulated in the tripod legs. Water can be surprisingly heavy and affect the stability of your tripod. It can also leak out and cause damage to your camera or other equipment.

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Focus a third of the way into the frame

Focusing a third of the way into the frame is a rough and ready approach to landscape photography. It is not a particularly scientific or precise approach, but it works surprisingly well. The problem is deciding exactly where this point is; it can be slightly hit and miss.

Depth of field, the zone of acceptable focus, falls approximately one-third in front of where you focus and two-thirds beyond this point. Therefore, if you focus too near or far into the scene, you are effectively wasting a slice of the depth of field available to you.

If you are using autofocus, you can use a single AF point to magnify your chosen point of focus and either manually or automatically focus.

If you are using manual focus, you can use live view to increase the magnification to 100% on your focusing target. Then, slowly rotate the manual focus ring on your lens until the scene looks as sharp as possible.

If you are using autofocus, you can also use live view, except for fast-moving subjects. For these, it is best to autofocus through the viewfinder.

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Try focus stacking

Focus stacking is a technique used to achieve a deep depth of field by blending multiple images together. It is particularly useful when you want to keep both the foreground and background elements of a landscape photo sharp.

  • Pick your subject and choose a composition: Mount your camera on a tripod and carefully compose your photo. If you don't have a tripod, you can try handheld focus stacking, but it will be more challenging to maintain a consistent composition.
  • Set your exposure: Dial in your exposure settings, including aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Use your camera's exposure meter and histogram to guide you. Remember that a narrow aperture, such as f/11, will help keep more of your scene in focus, but it will also reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor.
  • Switch to manual focus: Set your lens to manual focus mode. This will allow you to precisely control the point of focus.
  • Take your first shot: Focus on the nearest part of the scene, such as the foreground elements, and take the first shot.
  • Take remaining images: Slowly move your focus away from the foreground, taking additional shots at different focus points. The number of images you need will depend on the depth of your scene. For most landscapes, two or three shots are sufficient, but for more complex scenes, you may need five or more.
  • Blend the images in post-processing: Use software like Photoshop, Helicon Focus, or Zerene Stacker to blend the images together. These programs will automatically align and stack the images, creating a final image with a deep depth of field.

Focus stacking is a powerful technique that can help you achieve stunningly sharp landscape photographs. It may take some practice to master, but it will allow you to capture scenes with incredible detail and clarity.

Frequently asked questions

The best way to ensure your landscape photos are in focus is to use the double-distance method. Focus on a point that is twice as far away as the closest object in your photo. This will give an equal sharpness to the foreground and background.

To maximise the depth of field, select a smaller aperture. A mid-range aperture of around f/8 tends to be the sharpest, but for landscapes, you may need to go smaller (e.g. f/11) to ensure the whole scene is in focus.

The hyperfocal distance is the closest focus point at which objects at infinity are still in focus. It is the focus distance that maximises the depth of field. You can use an app or calculator to work out the hyperfocal distance for your specific camera and focal length.

Focus stacking is a technique where you take multiple photos of the same scene, each with a different focal point, and then blend them together in post-processing. This helps to ensure that your entire scene is in focus, from foreground to background.

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