Focusing Analog Cameras: A Guide To Perfect Sharpness

Focusing an analog camera can be a tricky process, but it's a useful skill to have. Manual focus is when you adjust the in-focus region to be closer or further from the camera by rotating the focusing ring on your lens while autofocus is disabled. Most analog film cameras require manual adjustments because they lack digital features, but there are tools and techniques to help you focus your shots.

Use a Rosco swatchbook to add contrast to your viewfinder

The Rosco Roscolux Swatchbook is an excellent tool for any photographer or filmmaker looking to add contrast and creative colouring to their viewfinder. This swatchbook contains a small sample filter of almost every Roscolux filter, giving you a wide range of colours to choose from for your photography or filmmaking needs.

The swatchbook is typically used to select the desired colour, after which one would order the full-size filter. However, many photographers and filmmakers use the samples directly on their lenses or strobes, experimenting with the various colours to add contrast and unique effects to their images and footage.

The Roscolux Swatchbook is highly regarded for its quality and value, offering a vast array of colours at an affordable price. It is perfect for those looking to expand their photography or filmmaking skills and experiment with different colours and effects.

Additionally, the swatchbook includes information on the transmission curves for each filter, providing valuable data for those seeking to understand the technical aspects of their craft.

With its extensive range of colours, the Rosco Roscolux Swatchbook is an excellent addition to any photographer's or filmmaker's toolkit, offering endless creative possibilities and the ability to add unique contrast and effects to their work.

Understand the difference between manual and autofocus

Autofocus and manual focus both adjust the focus of the camera lens, but they do so in different ways. With autofocus, the camera determines the sharpest focus using sensors, whereas, in manual mode, the photographer must adjust the lens focus by hand.

Autofocus

Autofocus is generally faster and easier than setting the focus manually. It can lock onto a subject faster, making it suitable for shooting moving subjects. Autofocus has seen advancements such as tracking, enabling it to lock focus on a subject and track it through the frame. This feature is particularly useful for capturing moving subjects.

However, autofocus can sometimes focus on the wrong part of the subject, and it is not as precise as manual focus. Autofocus also tends to struggle in low-light conditions and when there are many objects in the scene.

Manual Focus

Manual focus gives the photographer greater control and precision over the shot's focus. It is ideal for situations where autofocus may struggle, such as low-light conditions, shooting through glass or fences, or when there are many objects in the scene. Manual focus is also better for macro photography, portrait shots, and low-light photography.

However, manual focus is slower than autofocus, which can make it challenging for action shots. It also requires the photographer to choose the point of focus, which can be difficult in certain situations.

Use the depth of field preview button

The depth of field preview button is a useful but often overlooked feature on your camera. It is usually located on the front of the camera near the lens. By pressing this button, you can get a better idea of what your final image will look like.

Depth of field refers to how much of an image is in focus. A shallow depth of field means that only the subject is in focus, while a deep depth of field has everything in focus. You can control the depth of field by adjusting the aperture on your lens. A wide aperture results in a shallow depth of field, while a narrow aperture gives you a deeper depth of field.

When you look through the optical viewfinder on your camera, you are seeing the scene with the aperture set to its widest setting. The aperture only closes down to the value you have selected when you take the photo. This is done to maximise the light coming through the viewfinder, making it easier to see what you are photographing. However, this means that you cannot accurately judge the depth of field.

This is where the depth of field preview button comes in. When you press this button, the aperture closes down to the value you have chosen, giving you a preview of the depth of field in your image. The trade-off is that the viewfinder image will become darker. This feature is particularly useful for landscape photographers who want to ensure that everything is in focus, and for portrait photographers who want to blur the background and ensure that only the subject is in focus.

While this button is very useful for photographers using optical viewfinders, it is less necessary for those using electronic viewfinders or live view screens, as these display an accurate preview of the depth of field without darkening the image.

Measure the distance from your lens to the subject

Measuring the distance from your lens to the subject is a crucial aspect of focusing an analog camera, and it involves several considerations and calculations. Here's a detailed guide to help you measure this distance effectively:

Firstly, it's important to understand the concept of the "working distance," which is the space in front of the lens that you have to work with. This is different from the "minimum focus distance" (MFD) or "minimum object distance" (MOD) provided by the manufacturer, which indicates the distance from the imaging sensor to the subject. The working distance is particularly important in macro photography, where physical obstructions or frightening the subject can be an issue.

To calculate the working distance, you can use the following formula:

> WD = MFD - mfgLL - FFD

Here, WD is the working distance, MFD is the minimum focus distance, mfgLL is the manufacturer-specified lens length, and FFD is the flange focal distance (the distance from the sensor to the rear of the lens mount).

If you're using a Canon EF or EF-S lens mount, the FFD is 1.7" (44mm). For a Nikon F lens mount, the FFD is 1.8" (46.5mm).

If you're using a different lens mount, you can find the FFD for various mounts on Wikipedia or other online sources.

Now, let's discuss the process of measuring the distance from your lens to the subject:

• Start by measuring the distance between the lens and the object you want to capture. This is known as the "object distance" and is measured from the front principal plane of the lens to the object itself.
• Next, you'll need to measure the distance between the lens and the generated virtual image. This is referred to as the "image distance."
• With these measurements, you can now calculate the focal length using the following formula:

> Focal length = (Object distance / ((1 / Magnification) + 1)) × 1000

Here, the object distance is given in millimetres, and magnification is a unitless value.

To find the magnification, you can use the following equation:

> Magnification = Image size / Object size = -(Image distance / Object Distance)

In this equation, the object size refers to the actual size of the object in millimetres, and the image size refers to the size of the camera's digital sensor or 35mm film, also in millimetres.

By following these steps and calculations, you can accurately measure the distance from your lens to the subject, which is essential for achieving sharp focus in analog photography.

Use manual focus for macro photography

Manual focus is a great skill to learn and is particularly important for macro photography. While autofocus is often more convenient, there are times when manual focus is preferable, or even essential.

Manual focus is a good option when your autofocus is confused or struggling. For example, in low-light settings, or with transparent or low-contrast subjects, autofocus can struggle. In these cases, switching to manual focus can be easier than fighting with your autofocus.

Manual focus is also useful for astrophotography, where light is very low and focus must be very precise.

Macro photography often falls into this category, as the depth of field is extremely thin when working with such a tight subject area. The autofocus may focus on the background instead of the foreground, or only a small part of the subject may be in focus.

When using manual focus for macro photography, it's important to keep the camera steady while gently working the focusing ring. You can also try moving the camera and lens back and forth until the subject is sharp, rather than adjusting the ring.

Manual focus can be challenging, but it's a skill that can be developed with practice.

Frequently asked questions