Charging Vintage 8Mm Cameras: A Step-By-Step Guide

how to charge 8mm camera

The 8mm camera is a motion picture film format with a film strip that is eight millimetres wide. The format was developed by the Eastman Kodak company during the Great Depression and released to the market in 1932 as a cheaper alternative to the 16mm format. The standard 8mm film, also known as regular 8mm or double 8mm, is exposed on both edges, resulting in two lengths of 8mm film with a single row of perforations. The Super 8 format, introduced in 1965, offers a larger image area and a cartridge-loading system for easier use. To charge an 8mm camera, one must ensure it is loaded with film and that the motor is functioning to advance the film.

Characteristics Values
Film Format 8mm wide
Versions Standard 8mm, Super 8, Single 8mm, Straight-8
Frame Size 4.8mm x 3.5mm
Film Length 25 feet
Frame Rate 16, 18, 24, 36 fps
Film Cost $110 for 5 rolls
Camera Cost $300-$800
Film Processing Cost $18/roll
Film Digitization Cost $0.40/ft
Film Types Kodak Vision 3, Tri-X reversal 7266, Ektachrome 100D color reversal, B&W Fomapan R100

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Where to buy 8mm film cameras

There are a few options for purchasing 8mm film cameras. You can find them at antique shops, flea markets, camera shops, and online marketplaces such as eBay, Etsy, and Facebook Marketplace. Additionally, some specialist retailers, such as Pro8mm, sell refurbished and retrofitted 8mm cameras.

  • Online Marketplaces: eBay, Etsy, and Facebook Marketplace are great places to start your search. These platforms offer a wide variety of options, and you may be able to find some good deals.
  • Specialist Retailers: Pro8mm, based in California, is a well-known company that offers high-quality refurbished and retrofit 8mm cameras, film stock, and other gear. They have a retail store in Burbank, CA, where you can pick up your order or browse their selection in person.
  • Camera Shops: Used camera shops are another excellent option for finding 8mm film cameras. These shops often have a variety of vintage and second-hand camera equipment, and their staff may be able to provide valuable advice and guidance.
  • Antique Shops and Flea Markets: If you're looking for a more unique or vintage 8mm film camera, antique shops and flea markets are worth exploring. You may be able to find some hidden gems, but be sure to test the cameras before purchasing to ensure they are in working condition.
  • Garage or Yard Sales: Keep an eye out for garage or yard sales in your area. You never know when someone might be selling a rare or affordable 8mm film camera.

When purchasing an 8mm film camera, it's important to test the motor to ensure it works properly. Additionally, if possible, opt for a film-tested camera and ask the seller for any available footage or CLA (clean, lube, adjust) certification. This will give you peace of mind and help you avoid wasting money on a camera that doesn't work as expected.

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How to load 8mm film cameras

To load 8mm film cameras, it is recommended to do so in subdued light or a slightly darkened room. This is because, although there is some film at the start and end of the spool that is not light-sensitive, the film can still be exposed to light during the loading process.

First, unwrap a new roll of 16mm film and place it in the receiving supply side of the camera. This film will have a jet-black backing called a "rem-ject", which protects the underlying film from accidental exposure to light. Then, thread the film from the supply roll to the take-up roll, following the film path specified by arrows engraved inside the camera. Once the film is threaded, close the back of the camera and you can begin shooting.

After about 5 minutes of shooting, the 25-foot-long roll will be exposed. At this point, you will need to pause and open the camera back to remove the take-up reel with its exposed film. Turn the reel over and reinsert it into the supply position. Thread the film again and close the camera back. You can now continue shooting for another 5 minutes.

After the two passes through the camera, the film will need to be sent to a photo-finishing lab for developing. At the lab, the film will be developed and then placed into a slitting machine, which will cut the 16mm film down the middle to create two rolls of 8mm film, each 25 feet in length. These two halves are then spliced together to make a finished roll of movie film that is 50 feet long.

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How to shoot 8mm film

The first step to shooting 8mm film is to choose your camera. You can find 8mm cameras at antique shops, flea markets, camera shops, and online. Most cost under $100, but the nicer models can run closer to $800. Canon, Nikon, and Beaulieu are some of the major brands still circulating.

When choosing your camera, consider whether you want manual or automatic functions. Some cameras have a crank and are completely manual, while others are automatic and require batteries. If possible, opt for a film-tested camera and ask to see the footage and any CLA (clean, lube, adjust) certification the seller may have.

The next step is to choose your film stock. Different film stocks have different characteristics, such as contrast, saturation, and colour rendition. The most important things to look out for when buying film stock are the speed and colour temperature. Each film has an ASA rating, which determines how sensitive the film is to light. If you’re used to digital cameras, ASA is equivalent to ISO.

Film stock also has a fixed colour balance—either tungsten-balanced or daylight-balanced. Tungsten-balanced film will look warm if used outdoors, while daylight-balanced film will look cold if used indoors. You can buy an 85 filter to offset tungsten film for use in daylight conditions, but this will cost you 2/3rds of a stop of light.

You can buy new or second-hand film stock. New film cartridges cost around £35 and will last around 2-3 minutes, depending on your frame rate. With second-hand film, you don't know how it has been stored, and each roll may vary greatly. However, it is a more budget-friendly option.

Now, you're ready to start shooting! Remember to calculate how much film you need before you start and stick to it. Be frugal and keep an eye on the reel counter. Try to keep an eye on your exposure as well—overexposing film isn't the worst thing in the world, but if you underexpose, you've bought a one-way ticket to board the grain train.

When shooting, hold the camera steady and use a tripod whenever possible. Super 8, with its small frame, is a "close-up" medium, and there is a limit to the amount of detail it can capture compared to larger film formats. Medium and close-range shots are often the most effective. If your camera has a "zoom" lens, use it sparingly. Consider using a small "fill light" when shooting interiors with limited light and high-speed film, even if your camera's meter indicated sufficient light.

Intermix long, medium, and close-up shots for variety. A good rule of thumb is to start a movie sequence with a shot to establish the action, then follow with a related scene shot from a different distance. Close-ups add variety, impact, and interest, so use them often when they're appropriate.

Lastly, don't forget about cutaways, sequences, and different camera angles to enrich the continuity of your movie story.

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How to develop 8mm film

Developing 8mm film can be done at home or by sending it to a specialist lab. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to develop 8mm film:

Understanding Film Types:

Before developing, it's important to understand the type of 8mm film you have. There are two main categories: Positive (reversal) and Negative film. Positive film produces a normal image, also known as a slide, that can be projected directly. Negative film, on the other hand, produces a negative image that needs to be printed onto photographic paper for proper viewing.

Choosing Chemicals:

The development process requires different chemicals depending on the film type. For Positive film, you'll need reversal chemicals, either black and white or colour. For Negative film, you can use Negative Black and White or Negative colour chemicals. These chemicals are readily available from photography suppliers.

Setting Up a Darkroom:

Developing film requires a darkroom or a completely dark space to prevent light exposure from ruining the film. You'll also need a film processing tank, which can be a standard spiral tank, a Morse rewind tank, or even a simple bucket for a messier process. Ensure your workspace is well-ventilated as the chemicals can produce strong fumes.

Preparing the Chemicals:

Follow the instructions provided with your chosen chemicals to mix and prepare the developer and fixer solutions. It is crucial to work in a well-lit area during this step to ensure accurate measurements and proper handling of the chemicals.

Loading the Film:

Load the 8mm film into the processing tank's reel, being careful not to touch the film surface with your bare fingers. Close the tank securely, following the tank's specific instructions.

Developing the Film:

With the film securely loaded, proceed to pour the developer solution into the tank and gently agitate the tank for the recommended amount of time specified in the chemical instructions. After the development time, pour out the developer and fill the tank with water to stop the development process.

Fixing the Image:

Pour the fixer solution into the tank and again gently agitate it for the specified time. The fixer ensures the image stays on the film and doesn't fade. After fixing, wash the film with clean water to remove any chemical residue.

Drying the Film:

Carefully remove the film from the tank and use film clips to hang it in a dust-free, dark area to dry completely. Ensure the film is taut but not stretched too tightly to avoid warping.

Alternative: Sending Film to a Specialist Lab:

If the process seems daunting or you prefer professional services, there are specialist labs that offer 8mm film development and scanning services. These labs have the expertise and equipment to handle various film types and provide high-quality results. However, their services come at a cost, typically charging per reel or foot of film processed.

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How to convert 8mm film to digital

There are several ways to convert 8mm film to digital. Here is a step-by-step guide:

Method 1: Record the Footage as It Plays

This is the most affordable and fastest way to convert 8mm film to digital. However, the quality may not be the highest. Here is what you need to do:

  • Get a projector and clean the projector screen to ensure there is no dirt or hair.
  • Set up the projector in a darkened room—the darker, the better. Even a small amount of light can affect the final look of your digitized footage.
  • Mount your camera (a camcorder or a DSLR) on a tripod and position it to frame the projected image properly.
  • Do a test shoot for a few seconds to ensure everything is set up correctly.
  • Once you are happy with the setup, hit record on your camera and start playing your 8mm film.

Method 2: Use a Transfer Machine

A transfer machine is a more professional way to convert 8mm film to digital. These machines typically cost between $300 and $400 and include a camera, a film projector, and a mechanism to capture film frames. Here is how you can use one:

  • Set up the transfer machine in a darkened room to minimize the amount of light entering.
  • Carefully load your 8mm film into the machine, ensuring it is properly threaded to prevent snags or misalignments.
  • Position the transfer machine's camera correctly so that it captures the entire 8mm film.
  • Adjust camera settings such as exposure to improve image quality.
  • Start the transfer. Once complete, save your digital files on a USB drive or DVD.

Method 3: Scan Each Frame Individually

This method requires more intricate steps and knowledge of cameras. Here is what you need to do:

  • Using a projector and a DSLR camera, remove the lens from the projector.
  • Attach an element to the lens to help filter and focus the light output.
  • Reinstall the projector lens and place your DSLR in front of it.
  • Turn on the camera and drape a dark-coloured cloth over the lens, ensuring the cloth covers where the camera and lens meet.
  • Thread your 8mm film through the projector and start recording. Ensure the scanning device has enough memory to store the entire film.

Method 4: Hire a Professional Company

If you want a high-quality transfer and are willing to pay for it, you can hire a professional company to do the conversion for you. This typically involves sending your 8mm film to the company, and they will send it back once the transfer is complete.

Professional companies can use restoration techniques to improve any degradation in your 8mm film, minimize scratches, reduce flickering, and colour-balance the film. They can also offer add-on services such as sound restoration and DVD authoring.

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Frequently asked questions

You can find 8mm cameras at antique shops, flea markets, camera shops, and online (eBay, Craigslist, etc.).

Make sure the motor works. If it doesn't, you won't be able to advance your film. If possible, go for a film-tested camera and always ask to see the footage and any CLA (clean, lube, adjust) certification the seller may have.

This will depend on the specific camera model. You can refer to YouTube tutorials or your camera's instruction manual for guidance on loading film into your specific 8mm camera.

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